On my first day in Wuhan I decided that a little walk into
the city centre was a good option. Only upon walking a mile or so down the road
did it begin to dawn on me that my notion of being close to a nucleated centre
might be a little off. Whilst at the time I felt like a bit of a let-down for
giving up and retreating to my apartment, in retrospect it was a decision that
saved me a lot of wasted effort. Due to the fact that Wuhan is an amalgamation
of three older cities (Wuchang, Hanyang and Hankou) there is no one definitive
centre, rather each district has its own downtown areas. Not only this, but the
sprawling nature of the city would have meant that I would have been walking
for hours before getting to the kind of area I was looking for. When getting
around Wuhan you are reliant upon public transport, which is luckily quite
good.
Buses are probably the easiest and cheapest way of getting
around Wuhan. From wherever you are in the city you will never be far from a
bus stop, with buses coming every few minutes. The bus network itself is also
very extensive, making it that much easier to get around. For ticket fares they
employ a flat rate for all journeys, thus long journeys across the city can
cost as little as 2RMB. On the downside though, bus timetables are only written
in Chinese characters so if you do plan on getting an unfamiliar route make
sure you know the name of your destination in characters! At peak times buses
can be somewhat overcrowded which on a hot summer day is not the most enjoyable
experience.
Traffic in Wuhan can be particularly bad at rush hour,
something made worse by the fact that drivers in Wuhan can be a law unto
themselves at times. Lanes, signalling and even traffic lights are sometimes a
hindrance that a number of drivers choose to ignore! Having said that, other
than minor scrapes I have never seen a really serious accident much less been
in one, so I guess they’re doing something right. On the plus side with the
construction of more overpasses and particularly the subway, congestion has
eased somewhat recently, and with more lines on the subway opening this year
and next, I am hoping that this is a trend that will continue.
The abundance and relatively low cost of taxis also makes
them a convenient way of getting around the city. A journey of 30-40 minutes
would cost around 30RMB, which while expensive compared to catching the bus, is
certainly cheaper than taxis in most other countries. Again though, it is a
rare taxi driver that speaks any English so make sure you learn the Chinese for
wherever it is you want to go. Taxi drivers are usually quite patient and
friendly though, and I have found that they are some of the best people to
practise Chinese with. What I would say though is be prepared for more probing
questions than you might be asked at home – the details of my monthly salary
being something that most taxi drivers are very interested in!
Luckily for those coming to Wuhan now there is now a metro
system which is both cheap and (more importantly) in English. Presently only
two lines are open, one going across the city horizontally, while the other
stretches the length of Hankou. Many of the more visited areas in the city are
accessible from the existing lines and with more lines planned to open in the coming
years, the city will soon be fully connected. For now though, crowded buses
will have to do.
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